Running vs starting watts
Running watts are what an appliance draws once it’s going. Starting watts are the brief surge a motor needs to get moving, often several times its running watts. Your generator has to cover both.
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Tap everything you want running at the same time. You’ll see your running watts, the biggest starting kick, and the size to buy.
Tap to add, tap again to remove. Set how many in your list.
Nothing yet. Tap what you’d run during an outage, a camping trip or a job.
Battery instead of gas
How long a battery runs your load. Its capacity in watt-hours (Wh) is printed on the box.
Following your list A CPAP is about 60 W.
Runs for
Enter a load
Capacity × 85% ÷ load
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Works when the power and internet are out. The same appliances and the same math as this page, with kits for a storm, camping or the jobsite, and a check against the generator you own. Plan up to 4 things at once, or unlock the full plan in the app to plan everything.
How it works
Running watts are what an appliance draws once it’s going. Starting watts are the brief surge a motor needs to get moving, often several times its running watts. Your generator has to cover both.
We size so your running load is no more than 80% of the generator’s running rating. It’s a common rule of thumb, not a law: it leaves room for a surprise and is easier on the engine. That’s why 1,800 W of load points to at least 2,300 W.
Fridges, freezers, pumps, furnace fans and air conditioners have motors or compressors. We add only the single biggest kick to your running total, because motors rarely start at the same instant. Start the biggest one first, then the rest one at a time.
Most generators show two numbers. The smaller one is running (rated) watts. The bigger one is starting (surge or peak) watts. Model names don’t follow one rule: many “2,000 W” inverters run only about 1,600 W. Match your running total to the smaller number and your peak to the bigger one.
| Appliance | Running | Starting |
|---|---|---|
| Kitchen | ||
| Fridge | 200 W | 1,200 W |
| Freezer | 180 W | 1,100 W |
| Camp fridge | 70 W | 180 W |
| Microwave | 1,000 W | 1,000 W |
| Coffee maker | 1,000 W | 1,000 W |
| Electric kettle | 1,200 W | 1,200 W |
| Toaster | 900 W | 900 W |
| Air fryer | 1,500 W | 1,500 W |
| Electric skillet | 1,250 W | 1,250 W |
| Induction cooktop | 1,800 W | 1,800 W |
| Heating & cooling | ||
| Furnace fan | 600 W | 1,200 W |
| Space heater | 1,500 W | 1,500 W |
| Small window AC | 600 W | 1,800 W |
| RV air conditioner | 1,600 W | 3,500 W |
| Box fan | 100 W | 100 W |
| Dehumidifier | 500 W | 1,200 W |
| Electric blanket | 180 W | 180 W |
| Water | ||
| Sump pump | 800 W | 1,300 W |
| Well pump | 1,000 W | 2,100 W |
| Everyday | ||
| LED lights | 80 W | 80 W |
| Wi-Fi router | 15 W | 15 W |
| Phone charger | 10 W | 10 W |
| Laptop | 60 W | 60 W |
| TV | 120 W | 120 W |
| Starlink | 75 W | 100 W |
| Hair dryer | 1,500 W | 1,500 W |
| Medical | ||
| CPAP | 60 W | 60 W |
| Garage & tools | ||
| Garage door | 400 W | 1,400 W |
| Work light | 80 W | 80 W |
| Circular saw | 1,400 W | 2,300 W |
| Angle grinder | 1,400 W | 2,400 W |
| Air compressor | 1,200 W | 2,000 W |
Starting is the brief surge for a motor or compressor. Where it equals running, the appliance has no real kick. Check your own labels when you can.
Read this before you run it
Never run a generator inside a home, garage, basement, crawl space or shed, even with doors and windows open. Keep it outside, at least 20 feet from windows, doors and vents, with the exhaust pointed away. Use battery or battery-backup CO alarms inside.
Get to fresh air right away. Then call 911, or Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 in the US.
Plugging a generator into a wall outlet can send power up the utility lines and electrocute line workers and neighbors. It also bypasses your home’s circuit protection.
To power circuits in your panel, have a licensed electrician install a transfer switch or interlock kit, with a permit where required. Otherwise, plug appliances into the generator with heavy-duty outdoor extension cords rated for the load.
Turn it off and let it cool before refueling. Store fuel outside living areas. In rain, keep it dry under an open canopy, never by moving it indoors.
Sources: CDC, power outage safety · CPSC, portable generator hazards. This page does not give electrical installation advice.
Questions people ask
Straight answers, worked out with the same numbers as the calculator.
A typical fridge runs on about 200 W but needs about 1,200 W for a second or two when its compressor starts. On its own, that means a generator label showing at least 300 W running and 1,200 W starting. Add a freezer, LED lights, Wi-Fi and a phone charger and it comes to 485 W running and 1,485 W at peak: at least 700 W running and 1,500 W starting. Check the starting number on the label, because some small generators start less than that. Older fridges can need more to start.
It depends on what you run at the same time, not on the size of the house. Outage essentials (fridge, freezer, LED lights, Wi-Fi, phone charging, a CPAP and a sump pump) come to 1,345 W running and 2,345 W at peak: at least 1,700 W running and 2,400 W starting. Add a furnace fan, a well pump and a microwave and it’s 3,945 W running and 5,045 W at peak: at least 5,000 W running and 5,100 W starting. Central air, an electric range, a dryer or an electric water heater can push you past the biggest common portables, which run about 12,000 to 16,000 W. That is home standby size, so have a licensed electrician size and install it.
A 30 amp RV hookup can deliver up to 3,600 W (30 amps × 120 volts). Most 30 amp rigs have one air conditioner, and its start is the hard part: about 1,600 W running but about 3,500 W to start. The AC plus LED lights, a TV, a laptop and a phone charger comes to 1,870 W running and 3,770 W at peak: at least 2,400 W running and 3,800 W starting. Many “2,000 W” inverters start at about 2,000 W, so one alone won’t start that AC. A soft start fitted to the AC lowers its starting kick. If you have one, add the AC as your own item with its new numbers.
Count only what runs at the same time. Typical outage essentials: a fridge about 200 W, a freezer 180 W, LED lights 80 W, Wi-Fi 15 W, phone charging 10 W, a CPAP 60 W and a sump pump 800 W. That is 1,345 W running. Then add the single biggest starting kick, here the fridge at 1,000 W extra, for a 2,345 W peak. Start the biggest motor first, then switch the rest on one at a time.
A typical sump pump runs on about 800 W and needs about 1,300 W to start: at least 1,000 W running and 1,300 W starting. A typical well pump runs on about 1,000 W and needs about 2,100 W to start: at least 1,300 W running and 2,100 W starting. Both together need at least 2,300 W running and 2,900 W starting. Pumps vary, and older ones can need more to start, so check the label. Many well pumps run on 240 volts and are hardwired, which means a generator with a 240 V outlet and a transfer switch or interlock installed by an electrician.
Runtime is capacity × about 85% ÷ load. A 1,024 Wh power station runs a 60 W CPAP for about 14 h 30 min, or a fridge drawing 200 W nonstop for about 4 h 20 min. Fridges cycle on and off, so real runtime is usually longer. Turning off a CPAP’s heated humidifier usually stretches runtime a lot. The station must also handle the start: a fridge needs about 1,200 W for a moment, so check its surge rating.
Starting kicks last a second or two, and motors rarely start at the exact same moment. Adding every kick would size for a moment that rarely happens. The catch: two motors can occasionally start together, like a fridge and a sump pump. If your generator trips when that happens, give yourself more starting headroom, or stagger what you can.